Mosh Glass

Up hard. Cuz up late last night. Of course, we are up late most every night and I don’t sleep well. Our hostel, here in Florence, has no AC. Like most Histels. We were spoiled in Rome. Here, I sleep in an oven with no ventilation. I sleep on top of the covers all night and am still over heated. I like the American version where even the cheapest motel has working AC even in winter in North Dakota. God Bless the US.

So, get ready for day. Usual problems, shower works poorly though it does have hot water. The shower doors are a funky tri fold thing. Leak like a sieve. The shower floor is the bathroom floor, no lip or tub. We have to throw a towel down to hold back the flood. Nice. But I manage. No fan so it’s insanely steamy and can’t leave door open cuz e got roommates, it’s a hostel. So I get cooked. Then I shave in a mirror that won’t stay clear. That’s fun.

But I manage to get out and dressed. Feels good to walk into the room after because it feels cool after. Only time of day it does.

Em and I headed down for the petit dejeuner. The morning meal is not anything special or unique. High carb packaged food, at best. The coffee though, is quite good. Automatic espresso type machine with good coffee in it. Coffee in Italy pushes toward excellent at all opportunities. My rest stop cappuccino I had in the drive here is a perfect example. Just excellent. That’s all.

Today’s activity starts in the center of Florence. We are visiting the medieval church and done. He Duomo. Built in the 1400s. Like everything else.

We tried to buy tickets, but the regular tickets were sold out for the next few days. We had to purchase priority tickets from a private vendor. Seems these companies can buy up quite a few of the regular tickets, in advance, and them increase the price 5x and cheat is tourists out of our money. Nice.

Well, we got in and enjoyed the usual hike up a medieval tower staircase to the stars. I don’t need to workout, I just visit old monuments. We climbed thru a very narrow, short and twisty old staircase. About as comfy as a submarine.
At times there was people coming down as well. We got up close and very pe signal with sweaty tourists. And they did too. Marika got claustrophobic and had to start deep breathing exercises to calm down. Her response triggered my response and I got nervous.

The stair came out on a walkway at the base of the dome roof. About 200’ above the floor. Walkway about 20” wide. Unnerving. We wandered around the dome and looked at the painted ceiling. And down at the church. Then back out into the next walkway which goes to the top of the dome. The walkway is between the outside dome and inside dome and has a curved outer and inner walls. One way traffic only. Twice as closed in as lower. Very uncomfortable. If there were any issue in their, you are gonna die. No jaws of life here. So, after ten minutes of unnerving climb in very very tight quarters, we came out to the outside of the dome, 400’ above the square. The floor slopes out too. There is a railing. I found it almost impossible to go to the edge to take pictures. Not scary, I just did not feel comfortable. At least I was out of the “submarine” passages. Marika did better out in the open but did not stand at the edge. The view of Florence was spectacular and the guide we had did tell is a lot of info about Florence and the sights. Of course we had to climb back down the way we came up.

The climb down was a lot easier on my brain. There is no building of suspense you get in a climb up. So it was easy at least getting out.

Out to lunch. And lots of shopping.

We split up for lunch. Em and I found a place that did not serve the usual menu we have come to expect. And it was very inexpensive. And delicious. It was mostly a tartine or crostini with many and varied toppings to start. Along with a drink. Just to take the edge off. They brought a few free items out as well which is really nice since I think the total came to under $20. A nice pleasant lunch. Could just be better because our other three were not there. That’s a treat.

The Kids had pizza which was mediocre. Which makes my meal even better

After lunch, more shopping. I try to stay out of that. I don’t want anything.

The afternoon is not complete unless we sit in a cafe and have drinks. So we did.

And after drinks, more shopping

Dinner at the usual joint. And when I say usual I mean this one was small and intimate. Excellent food. Friendly waiter. Good wine. Nice.

The place did not take credit cards. The waiter solved that by walking me to an ATM to get cash.

Waiter got us a cab. I guess he wanted to be rid of us.

Back to hostel directly by cab. And surprise, kids to bar. Me and Em to bed. I know, it’s a surprise, the kids drink too much and is older folk go to bed. I get the best in that trade.

We are staying in a six bed dorm room of the hostel. We occupy 5. When we returned to our room, our roommate Felix from Quebec was there. We were able to have a nice conversation with him. I have many Canadian relatives so we had some things in common. Nice kid, he is 23. A computer engineer and able to work from the road. Sweet.

I am still not sleeping and this hostel has no AC. I had to take a towel to bed with me tonight to periodically dry off. Yuck. I can’t to leave if only to get out of the heat. Next stop is Pisa, it’s hot there, but only visiting for a day. I guess this is the middle of summer. But I thought the Lors would have made an exception for me.

It’s too early. Again I slept well but was unable to get to sleep till 2am. Old habits die hard, the kids were out till late drinking and I can not count on my daughters 27 year old brother to take care of her. He can’t imagine any dangers. Yes, he is a moron.

Dragged myself up at 7am. Showered and dressed and packed by 730. Now sitting at breakfast in the hostels dining room with Emily. Nothing special. But it’s cheap. 5 Euro all u can eat. Food is bad but at least servings are large. Perfect for the poor youngsters who stay here. High carb, high cal low $$. It’s the Golden Corral of Italy. And, wide screen playing constant music videos. Keeps you from staying and eating more.

We have been eating and sitting for an hour. The kids just showed up. They seem to have forgotten they wanted to get up early and go do things. I got the blank stare when I brought it up to them. Idiots.

So here we sit. They eat. We sit. God, I am tired. Never listen to your children when they say they want to be up early.

We did finally get in motion. Michael wanted to stop by a sunglasses store in Florence. He wants some cool Italian made shades like his father. I have several pair and I think they are awesome. And beautifully stylish. And Legit. Well, mine are. He can only hope.

Anyway, we loaded up the car and checked out of the hostel. Then drove twenty minutes and got street parking right out front. Turns out, the numbers on this street are not sequential. So we were a couple blocks away. So much for good parking.

We had to call the shop to find them, kinda crazy. Address #19 is next to #98. So very Italian.

We looked around in there for 30 minutes. Michael got a really cool pair, something that works for him. I would or could not wear that style. And, of course, Emily found a cool pair as well. To go with the pair I talked her into buying yesterday. We are all about style, esp in Italy.

From the Bottega Sguardlia (sunglasses) we went to the bronze Statue of David on the hillside above Florence. It’s a copy of the original which is in the Uffizzi gallery here. We were really just killing time and I also got to drive all over town. It’s my way of practicing my Italian. There seems a total disregard of traffic rules here but after a while you can see there are rules. There is a Roman Way to drive. Bumper cars.

We wandered the square and took a few candid shots and non candid. Very crowded in the square, lots of vendors too.

We hung around 20 minutes, jumped in our coche and headed to Pisa. Actually, Galileo Galilei Intl Airport, Pisa Italy, rental car return. It was a pleasant drive down the motorway. Nice, uncrowded scenery. Sides of the road not covered with signs. Each off ramp did not have several sites to purchase and consume rapidly prepared food. Or get gas. Highway beautification means something here. I could get used to it. The road condition is about same as back home.

About 30mi into our 50mi trip I pulled into a rest stop. They have a gas station. And a small food vendor. I would like to say, the Italians serve excellent food and coffee at the rest stops. We had lunch, sandwiches & coffee. Cheaper and far better than the crap I get back home. No fast food here. Just excellent food. The bread was good fresh baked bread not some Subway crap. The cheese and meat are like the best delis. I’d be lucky to get McDonalds back home.

The gas pump was next. Took a little figuring but I got it. Pretty much same as home. Except it was close to $6.50 per gallon. OMG. Ouch.

Off to airport. Pisa airport is tiny and easy to get around in. We found the rental return, dropped the car and walked to the terminal. Picked up a taxi and went to he hostel. Crazy. Storing our luggage till 3pm check in. What to do in meantime. Have a drink. Again, it’s vacay. Ten to three now going to check.

We were allowed in the room at 3, dumped our crap and went out on the town. The town being Pisa. A town with no pity. Or so I hear. Guess where we went in Pisa? Come on, u will never guess. Go ahead. Wrong. We went to see the leaning tower of course. What the hell else is there here? I think it’s the only reason there is an airport here. Or a town for that matter. I have to admit, it’s an awesome Wonder of the World. In person is something truly special. It explains all he tourists.

We did not spend the $40 per person to climb the 284 steps. Too much money!! I paid far less for Notre Dame and it has thousands of steps. It was enough to see it live and in person. Very nice.

Oh yeah, food for thought, the Italian engineers have stabilized and partially straightened the Leaning Tower. They could get it perfect. But that would be turning a golden goose into pate. The tourists would disappear. What good would that do? Gotta keep the filthy lucre flowing.

We left the Tower square and wandered. Stopped at a cafe for apps and drinks. Four Aperol spritz’s and a white wine. Some bruschetta. Nice. We wander d further after that and had dinner at another nice Italian Cafe.

Back to hostel, we gotta get up early for a train to Nice. The kids went downstairs to drink and watch the Croatia/England semi, World Cup. England lost.

The kids showed up very late and very drunk. Very. Drunk. I am going to sell them in the souk in Fes when we get there.

Last day (half day) in Rome. Up early, cleared out of our room but left our bags there so we could still get into town easily. We hopped an Uber to downtown. Our plan: St Peters and Sistene Chapel. Plans were trashed. The crowds are insane and there is no room in the Sistene Chapel. But, we got in early to St Peters and the Basilica. Which is good. We were able to climb to the dome, high above the square where most people get to view the Pope. Though he was not cruising around today.

The square is immense. I tried to imagine it full, with a million people, like when the pope is speaking there. It must stretch to the horizon. The square extends far into the distance where it’s really just a very wide street. I have seen it full on TV. And I wonder where they all go to the bathroom? I looked for the famous smokestack (white/Black) but don’t know where it is.

Because of all the crowds we will not be able to visit the Sistene Chapel today. Or pay a couple hundred per person in priority fees to do so. No.

We can get into St Peters and walk up to the dome several hundred feet up. It is like every other medieval landmark, several thousand steps up a tower. Then thru some ancient passageways till we get out to the outside of the dome covering the church. The view is spectacular. I can only imagine what it’s like when the pope is here. I know I have said that before but it is the whole point of this place.

The climb up and down took a couple hours. We had enough time when done for a quick lunch, so quick the waiter failed to deliver som food, at a cafe close by. Then hopped a taxi to the hostel to get luggage and same taxi to airport for what? A car of course. We are driving to Florence. Cheapest and fastest way. And I did check.

Well we got to airport and it was not so smooth. We found the rental car counter. They sent us away to another counter, computer issues, then back to first counter to pick up car. A Renault Cactus. Which is a small SUV. Stick shift like all the cars here.

And off to Florence, a 3 hour drive. I was surprised by the nature of the open road driving. Rome drivers are insane. Really crazy. But out on the highway, they revert to mostly polite drivers not going to fast. I enjoyed. Saw the countryside, which looks like California.

We had a great opportunity. I was able to stop at a rest stop for coffee. Had an excell my cappuccino in a real cup. Ya, no kidding. The food at the rest stop was no less than phenomenal. Just critically acclaimed (that would be me) sandwiches and other items. Meats sliced to order, beautiful smoked meat and salami on wonderful bread. Ya, better than AMPM nachos. Wow. I wish I could share pictures.

We arrived in Florence in late afternoon. And easily fouls our hostel. Can’t say same for parking. Street parking which I had to advance pay for. Two days worth. Not so bad, at least I got a space. A blue space. No white space. And the white to blue ratio was 10:1. But I got one.

Checked into Sante 7 Hostel. Nothing special, a dormitory experience. But clean. No AC, but it was only hot and humid like Africa so no matter. Hard to sleep.

The hostel has a bar and we went downstairs for a couple pops. I can’t avoid drinks, the kids insist.

We walked the the Market Centrale. This is a huge warehouse in the center of town with all manner of food and drink and shopping. Stays open past midnight. We checked it out and decided to come back the next day when all the outside stalls would be open. It’s also next to the Duomo, medieval church, with a dome, and an agonizing climb to the top. See a trend? Or theme?

Off to find a dinner spot. The usual type place. Nothing exciting, adequate Italian food. I know. Seems boring. Kind of.

Galato after dinner, at market, they were only one open. The gelato is a highlight if only because I love ice cream.

Taxi home after. And to bed. Kids stayed up drinking in bar. Idiots. They won’t be young forever, I know how this works.

Today we are visiting the Borgheae museum. Then off to Vatican for Sistene Chapel and Museum.

We got up too early. Michael had made early reservations and he beats us into following him to wherever. It’s not pleasant. He would be a fine tour guide.

So, too early, we headed out. No breakfast cuz we will pick up on the way. It’s already hot and it’s only 10am. On sundays in Rome almost everything is closed. Including all cafes. So we walked a long way till we found something open. Finally something open. We got the usual, pastries and coffee. It’s just about the only thing we can find in the morning. This ain’t the US. After a quick stop we were off again. Before the Vatican, we are going to the Borghese museum. I have never heard of it but it contains a lot of renaissance art, paintings and sculpture.

The museum is way too far to walk. So, we walked. I think my travel pals are idiots. Of course, I am an idiot for going along. I should Uber.

The streets of Rome are quiet and abandoned on a Sunday morn. That is really pleasant. The Borgheae is in the middle of a very old park. The park is very nice and very old so the grounds are a little strange. Hard to describe except to say the park is not modern.

We spent a couple hours wandering thru the 3 floors. I saw so many recognizable paintings and sculptures. Caravaggio, Rubens and others. Renaissance. It’s fun to see paintings in the flesh you studied from a book. There is a personal connection. I thought ‘‘twas a great time’ had by all.

Michael, our dumbass de facto tour leader informed us at the end of our visit to the Borgheae that the Vatican was closed today. So no trip to VC. Today.

We have to go tomorrow. Monday. Which is our go to Florence day. So tomorrow’s schedule needs to be adjusted. A bit. I have arranged for a car to drive to Florence. The pickup time is 1030am. So I gotta call and adjust that to later. Pain. But not to bad. Michael never admits to mistakes. He has made a few.

No matter. I can handle the changes which are usually a matter of money, only.

We left the museum around noon. Our task: Lunch. It is Sunday and most places are closed so we have a challenge. Emily and I would prefer to walk around and find a place. The gen x’ers would prefer to google a place. I do not get all the info I want from an internet search. I like to see a place, and then look at google for a review. So as we searched we had two opposing points of view. Turns out, we both found a place at the same time, me physically in front of a cafe and Michael on the internet. Well, my PITA son said he was going to the one he found no matter what. Yes, PITA is not an honorary title for him. He earned it.

We walked about a mile, or accding to google, .3 miles. My ass.

No matter. The one he googled was an excellent choice too. The owner was in so we got extra special service. And extra food and beverage. Lunch was a Sunday Italian style. About three hours omg. All courses in the Italian style. They brought unordered extras – fresh raspberries for dessert and an entire bottle of Limoncello as an aperitif. Nice touch but we did kinda roll outta there.

So we decided to walk around a little. And we did. Ended up in Harry’s Bar Rome. Marika wanted to go as soon as I ran across it in an internet posting. It was very close to us. All had cocktails and of course the bar brought out more food to go with the cocktails. I need more food. Well we really rolled out of there a couple hours later. Italians know a thing or two.

We kinda wandered in the general direction of our lodgings. Going nowhere and stopping everywhere. We ran across a street market. Mostly clothing for sale at damn low prices. Some shopped there while I went to a mini market nearby. The market was selling toiletries. I have discovered that tre super markets here sell food only. I needed detergent for clothes and some toiletries and had real trouble finding them. I completely struck out on detergent. It turns out, from reading, you are better off using a laundry service. Who knew?

Em andnI went back to the room to relax and do laundry. I had some work to do. The younguns did the usual, stay out and drink. Something they do well.

Em and I got back and took showers and relaxed. After a couple hours the kids called and offered to bring food back to the room. So we ended up with slices of pizza and wine. The perfect in room service. And no one made me pay.

The rest of the evening we sat around the room. We did showers, and the like. I continued working. Too much shit to do.

Eventually we all went to sleep.

Shopping street

Hostel

What a day. Or what a night. I slept poorly. I could just not get to sleep. I finally went to sleep between 2 and 3. Which means I will feel like crap tomorrow. I need to bring sleeping pills next time.

The coliseum is on the schedule for today. I am excited. I have seen it in so many movies I feel like I have been there before. I haven’t.

But we are going this am. Early. My son likes to move early. He is psychotic about it. It is tremendously annoying. Really.

The coliseum is impressive. We had priority tickets so we skipped the line. Did I mention how hot it is today? It’s hot. And muggy. And when the romans built the coliseum, they forgot lifts and escalators. So for a few hours it was up and down stairs in the sun till we were ready to wilt. The experience is 10 on a 10 scale. My imagination runs wild with what went on in the arena. Think Gladiator the movie but in person. There is a lot to see while standing in the oppressive heat.

After 3 hours, we were done. Wasted, hot and exhausted. What to do? Went in search of gelato. We needed to cool down.

It was difficult to find gelato with the required dining room. We did not want to stand and eat outside. We found a place, got our gelato, ripoff tourist price and sat for long enough to eat it and cool off. Ice cream is medicine.

After gelato we went looking for lunch. Don’t judge me, I’m on vacay. Again, Emily and I wanted to find something off the beaten path. So we walked, a half an hour, out into Rome. And found a place without googling.

The lunch was ok. The service was not. Which does happen. We were waited on by the owner who, it seems, was only interested in pulling customers in from the street. Did I mention the bad service? Hell, I could not get the check so I could pay and leave till I begged. Food was ok.

After lunch was shopping. The ladies seem to think it necessary to go thru many stores in search of god knows what. Or just to look. Don’t understand.

I feel like we shopped for two hours but it could have been less. Felt like more.

After shopping the three adult children went off to find a drink. Booze. We went back to the hostel to do laundry. I think I preferred laundry to drinking. I need clean clothes more than a drink. Not always but tonight I do.

We got a call later in the evening. They had found a restaurant for dinner. Usual Italian food, go figure. I had a very nice seafood risotto, plenty of food and antipasti and wine. The usual. We strolled home late and I collapsed into bed. Love it when sleep arrives so easily.

Ahhh. First full day in Rome. I note one thing, everyone here is really friendly. Coming from Paris it is a shocking change. I thought most Parisiennes were nice and friendly but now I know they pale in comparison to Rome. So, first night was a hotel near the airport. Just a quick stop. We got up early and by we I mean Emily and I. We were up and done by 830am. We had a bottle of champagne. Same bottle I wanted last night but the dicks from Vueling said we could not drink it.

Next to breakfast at the hotel. Nice spread, all u care to eat. Much better than La Quinta. Much. The kids were still in bed when we returned to the room. Lazy shits. They managed to start moving and two of three got to breakfast just after 10. Breakfast closes at 10. I somehow got blamed. Fuck them, they are old enough to be adults. And besides, the nice folks at the hotel let them in anyway because they hate to see them miss eating. But I still got blamed. For what I must ask?

We jumped into a taxi (ok, no jumping) and headed to our actual lodgings in the middle of Rome. Marika picked very well. We are staying at the Comics Guesthose. It’s a graphic comics themed hostel a few blocks from the Vatican. This place is wild. And the room is sweet. Private and shared bathrooms. Nice. And did I mention it’s close to everything? Oh yeah. Already a big improvement.

The four of us went out to walk around. Emily is staying behind to lie down and elevate her feet. Her feet are swollen beyond crazy. Started with the plane and after walking 10 miles a day she is a little miserable. She has been sick with travelers disease as well. Poor baby.

We are walking into Rome central. The girls have needed to go shopping. We are at a clothing store near the Spanish Steps. I have vision of my future afternoon. Shopping with two young women. And my son who hates it. Not worth the long walk.

The shopping did last too long. I bought nothing. Carly shopped and bought nothing. Marika bought two things. All the walking and all the heat and nothing to show for it.

Weather is running to ge Mia 90s with like humidity. It’s truly miserable.

A lot of waking. We saw the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, a few other ancient miracles including, from a distance, the Coliseum and Vatican. There are ruins throughout this area. We saw the Tiber River. Our hostel is just 3 blocks away from it

Later in the evening Emily came out of exile for dinner with the rest of us. We found a nice trattoria not to far from our digs. We had a little of everything. I had grilled lamb chops, Emily had ravioli, kids various. Nice wine and some antipasti. Italy does have a lot of opportunity to eat good food. And we take the opportunity. And, in the Italian style, we take our time. We don’t have anywhere to go, so it’s easy.

After dinner we went home to our hostel. We walked which turned our to be kind of a mistake. Emily has swollen ankles and so do I. We both have heat rashes ankle to knees. So tomorrow when we go to the Coliseum we will Uber.

The morning came too early, as usual. But I managed to be up and ready before everyone else. Dressed, showered and packed.

Tonight we fly out to Rome. Kinda late. Since we have time today, we are going into Paris one more day. We have decided to try and get into the Catacombs. There is a long wait and only small groups go through so we will see how it works out with time limits.

Marika had wanted to hang out in a cafe and eat pastries but it appears there is no time for that. We did manage to stop at the snack counter outside the train station. We had pastries there. The speed is more of what we Americans can handle. Fast food.

We are on he train now. We have a few more stops and we will be in Paris. Seems like we have been here forever. We know our way around. Have some favorite places. But, today is time to leave. We just have today. This is what makes a short visit special. Or so I say to make it sound better.

We have only one thing on the agenda for today. We are going to the catacombs of Paris. It gets very crowded, very quickly, so we intend on getting there early. A few paragraphs back I mentioned being up and ready before all. Remember? No one else followed suit. They laid around asleep a couple more hours. So much for an early start.

Everyone finally ready, we took our packed bags to the front desk and checked them in. We are leaving today but do not want to lug the bags all over hell and gone. They can hold them all day. He bad part of that, we have to come back on the train to get them and then backtrack an hour to the airport. What fun.

So, we ran into Paris, sans luggage, to the catacombs. The line was already huge. It cost about 13 euro each adult (under 26 is child) so not too pricey. You can buy your way to the front of he line at 90 euro each. No thank you. So we waited in line 3 1/2 hours. Yikes. Though, as it turns out, well worth it.

You may ask, “Bill, what are the catacombs, I am too stupid to know”. Don’t feel bad. Not all of us know these things. Let me give you the Cooks Tour. Back in the early 1800s, Paris was expanding. In order to do this they had to excavate and move cemeteries. Many dates to the dark ages. The general incharge came at the problem in a straightforward way. He disinterred all the churchyard and hospital gravesites, stacked up all the bones and skulls and found convenient holes in other locations to put them. He used abandoned quarries. He stacked the bones like cordwood and used the skulls to fill in the spaces. The quarries were filled in. Perfect, no? As it turns out, no. A few years later, a few being many, after these disinterments were forgotten, others came along to dig the metro system. And in digging, they discovered the remains. These sites were excavated and logged and recorded and studied. And they became a fantastic attraction for visitors. The ones, like me, who want to wander in underground tunnels looking at bones from the Black Death or Tuileries, or La Revolution. Crazy.

The whole visit took 4 1/2 hours. But, if you are in Paris I can recommend it.

After viewing the dead city, we jumped on the Metro and headed back to our former hotel. That was an easy hour. We relaxed for a few minutes and picked up a taxi to the airport (CDG). Took under an hour. We arrived by 530 for a 930 flight. U would think that’s ok. Except we are flying Vueling Air, the Southwest if Europe. By comparing them to Southwest, I mean just like Southwest except with truly horrible customer service. They are cheap. True. There service is so bad you wish you had spent more. For instance, the only way to check in is in person at the counter. So we spent over an hour in line. It gets better. You can not check in till two hours before flight time. So we were in line and the the is frozen and the ticket agents sit at the counter serving no one till that time. Sounds great, no? No.

Having gotten through that, we went to eat. There are 2 places to go to eat in the terminal. International departures, 2 places. Brilliant. Easy choice, though.

I made a stop in duty free for Champagne. I still want to toast our European adventure. I have tried to get my retarded family to understand this but every time I suggest a bottle they are to stupid to understand. If they read this, maybe they will get it.

Then to gate. Overcrowded to thhotel extreme. One seat for every five travelers. Nice. Not. We got on line. For a bus. That takes us to the plane. They jammed people into the bus. Jammed. Packed. I watched, still in line with 20 people. Then they brought another bus. Which held twenty five of us. Not jammed or packed, most seated. Can these people count?

To the plane, finally. They only allow the line to form at the bus. They let 10 at a time out to walk across the tarmac and go up the stairs. God forbid we line up on the stairs. But, we got through that. On the plane!!

I wanted to open our Champagne, while still cold, but the stewardess said she had to take the. Title and keep it from us till we landed. Stupid fuckers. Well, we sat an hour. An hour. Why, who really knows. No announcements. I hate Vueling. I don’t care how cheap they are, I pay more next time and fly a decent airline. Never fly Vueling. Or Icelandair.

So an hour late into Rome. I hardly care. We got a taxi. Rude bastard of a driver. Drove like an Italian, ignoring all traffic signs and lights. Still arrived safely at hotel. He gave us a discount because he overfilled the van. No matter.

We have a hotel. We are going to bed. That’s what counts.

Ready to go early this morning. I mean vacay early. Up at qtr to 8. Shower nice. Get the sweaty grime of Paris off of us. Sounds nice, no? Beat my adult children out of bed. Not so shocking. At all. I was clean, dressed and fed before they opened their eyes. Quel shock, no? No. See I speak Frenchish.

Emily is right behind me. Kids still in bed. I am sure Michael will jump up and be ready by 9. He is always ready on time no matter what. Carly and Marika will drag up late.

Today we are on schedule at 1130 for the Louvre. Something to look fwd to. Emily has always wanted to visit here. A lifelong dream realized. Hope it holds up to expectations.

I have been sitting here an hour waiting on the three children. They are damn slow. And Michael is always on a mission. That does not seem to extend today to getting ready.

Finally out the door at 935. A quick walk to the Metro. The Metro lines run the same as the lines in London, similar equipment, so it has a familiiar feel. The lines go everywhere in Paris and the run with the train system so you can go back and forth between each. One ticket. Not even 30 euro per person on a 4 day ticket. I like that part.

We stopped at a small “Sandwicheria” outside the train station, on the way in. They have croissants and other food. We stocked up and ate in the train. I have to say, we have had a few croissants and pastries here. They are markedly better than those made in the US. Makes no sense. We as Americans always adopt other cultures food and make it better. Why not pastries? How hard can it be?

We took our usual Metro line into town. About 40 minutes. Today we are going to the Louvre. Everyone’s favorite Paris destination. And I mean everyone. It was marginally crowded when we arrived. By the the time we left it was a complete madhouse. Glad I left.

The Louvre is huge. And there are an insane amount of exhibits here. After a couple hours you realize you are not going to see it all. Not possible in one day. So, we stuck to what sounded like the things we want to see. And, of course, the must see’s. We saw the Venus de Milo, Winged Victory and the Mona Lisa. Everyone goes to see Mona Lisa. All at once it seems. No crowd control, just jam into the room, push to the front and get your selfie. That’s enough to show everyone back home you did it. Part of vacation is going to see what you are supposed to see.

After the Louvre, Emily and I split off from the kids. They went to do their thing and we went to do some normal shopping. First stop the drug store. Probably could have gone to a variety store but we could not find one. And it’s difficult with our limited grasp of French to ask. But, he drug stores are easily identified bybhe green cross on the front. Emily needed a few items of clothing so we went in search. After a few wrong stops, a salesclerk was able to direct us to a Monoprix, which is a store more like a CVS. It has a little bit of everything. She managed to find what she needed.

The kids called a little later and we took the metro over to the Notre Dame area to meet them for dinner. We found a nice cafe bistro. The place was all French, menu and waiters. Not even trying to help tourists. I don’t care. I had high school French. I ended up with a beef stew with pasta and vegatables which was very good. And a glass of “red” wine. I say red cuz it was unidentified. No help from the waiter. As is usual, we had a very good meal with nice wine, in the style francaise. Seems like every place we go is very good.

After dinner, we got ice cream. We had passed a spot that sells glacé on our way in from the Metro. So on our way back we stopped. We split up again after dessert. Em and I back to hotel and the kids out for drinks as usual.

It’s amazing how quickly you can pick up the transit system in foreign cities. True, they are all similar, but each has its intricacies. We had three connections by metro and train on the return and managed to navigate the trip.

We got back and still had laundry. I have work I still need to get done. A client needs some tax returns finished in order to get financing and that means I am working after running around all day. So I gotta cut back on sleep to find the time. Bad combo to be tired on vacation.
I managed to finish four returns tonight, with crappy WiFi and all the interruptions. Kids came home around one am. They had a good time. As they always manage to do. And I got to go to bed before 2am. Gonna be tired tomorrow.

Today nothing was planned. So what to do first? Slept way in. Way in. Till 1130. Man I was tired. I still am from oversleeping but I had to do it. Emily was right with me. Wish I could sleep like that every day.

Kids went for breakfast because for once they were up before us. And being so sweet, they brought us coffee. A note, all French coffee is excellent. So far. But really, all very good. I can’t wait for Italy which everyone says has the best coffee. And I have a thing for coffee.

So what else to do when nothing going on? We do laundry. This place has lousy facilities and the dryers don’t do much more than tumble. And it’s pricey. But these clothes don’t wash themselves. Sadly.

By some time in the day we got on the Metri and headed into town. Paris. A town without pity. Just kidding. Everyone says Parisians are rude. I don’t know. I find most quite friendly and helpful. I note on the subway several instances of people giving up their seats for other riders in need. Offering by getting up and giving the seat. No questions. I have ridden here in USA and I think no one ever does that. In France it’s notable how often and at home notable when it happens at all. Different cultures.

So, our first event of the day, a visit to the Arc de Triomphe. Center of city. Five roads lead into it. Surrounded by a huge traffic circle that is totally scary and insane. I spent five minutes standing and watching the traffic go by. Not gentle driving. Glad I am not in it. Or even at home driving through it.

The Arc is beautiful, as are most Paris landmarks. It impresses from far away and up close. Size and detail. Very similar in that sense to the Eiffel Tower. We decided to not go up inside the Arc. We have already burned a lot of daylight. We did walk around the Arc for an hour. There is much to see. The tomb of the unknowns is under the Arc. The view down the Champa Elysee is one of a kind. The street is beautiful in all respects and makes me wonder why can’t all streets be this beautiful? Because no one tries. Urban planners forget about beauty.

Lunch finally was next on the agenda. We usually go to some cafe or other. There are so many cafes and brasseries in Paris you can drown in them. Most serving French or that style. We walked a block or two off the Champs and found a nice quiet area for lunch. The cafe was was excellent. Not all are. We sat around for an hour or so. Drank wine and enjoyed the view of the street. All cafes, damn near, are open to the street and the street tables are, or seem to be, always full. Though we seldom wait for a table.

After lunch we went to the Hotel/Hospitale. de Invalides. Still a working hospital but also a French monument. Napoleons tomb is here and is quite majestic and also huge. I am guessing Napoleon had a Napoleon complex. In addition to the tomb, there the rest of this huge complex of buildings is a museum or actually several museums. French cultural and military history on display. The French display all of what they have and they have a lot

We spent several hours at the Invalides. Well worth a visit next you are in Paris.

The River Seine runs straight thru Paris. I believe Paris has 39 bridges or so. It’s didficult to not cross it several times a day. We decided to take a sunset cruise on the Seine. Large open air boats used by tourists to get a nice river view of the city. I’m a tourist so we we took a cruise. I got lots of great pictures and saw a different view of many of the monuments we already visited. This being France, there was a bar right at the embarkation area and we had to have a nip. The French drink everywhere and all the time. Gotta love it. So we were relaxed for the trip up, and down, the Seine.

We got back to the hotel quite late. And right to bed.

We were up early again. Into Paris by train. The most economical method of travel. The showers were a huge improvement over the lodgings in London. We are staying in a hotel that’s more like an apartment and much more modern. And cleaner. With working hot water. Clean linens. Nice.

We really did not have anything planned. So we went to some bakery for coffee and pastries. French style. No donuts. Coffee is excellent. There was no place to sit so we loitered our on the sidewalk and consumed our breakfast. We were all eating too much.

The bakery was near to Notre Dame cathedral so after eating we walked over that way. The free tour gets you the ground floor only. We did that yesterday but part of the inside was closed. As it turns out, we missed all the good parts on Monday. Today we have reservations to go up inside the Church to the roof and bell tower. Up where quasimodo works. I did not see him.

So we spent an hour retouring ND. Well worth it. Our reservations are end of day around 450. It’s a time range, not specific. It works.

We decided to picnic in the park by the Eiffel Tower for lunch. One thing about Paros, no one goes hungry. There are cafes, restaurants and specialty food shops all over. So we went to the wine shop, and cheese shop and bread shop and got together a small feast. We headed over toward the Tower and found a nice spot close to the boulevard with a great view of the Eiffel Tower. We had our lunch and a floor show. A tour bus parked on the street did something wrong. Not sure what. But a couple cops showed up and got into a screaming march with the bus driver. Driver delivered a bunch of fuck yous at screaming volume to the cops. Then more cops showed. No more screaming. More cops. Driver gone. Cops left. Way fun and entertaining show. Bus left parked wacky on busy street. We finished lunch.

Now for the quintessential experience for the Paris visitor – a trip to the Eiffel Tower. It seems cliche but the tower is an enduring symbol of France. And it’s cool. The tower itself has been described as an erector set. I have to disagree because to erector set ever came out beautiful and majestic. Walking across Paris and seeing it as you walk towards it is breathtaking. It truly shines on the horizon. It’s like a nice looking woman you see from across the club and when you get closer you discover she is even more than you thought.

Well, I don’t want to overdo it. The lines were quick and we went up the north leg of the tower. The elevators are actually inclinators. They go up at an angle. Like the Luxor in Vegas, only 120 years older.

The view from the mid level is striking. You truly realize how big Paris is from up there. The day was very clear and sunny and we could see for miles. Not so far I could see our hotel but a long ways. We walked around the 3 lower levels for a couple hours. Enjoyed the view.

At about 330 we headed back to Notre Dame. Now the real work begins.

We got to Notre Dame by 445. The extended tour started about 5. This tour, not free, in groups of 20, goes as high up as the roof top and bell towers. In 1148 when this was envisioned there were no elevators so climbing does not include elevators. And no ADA in France so no equal access. To get to the top you want to climb the 300’ to the top by using the stairs. The two front towers each enclose enough stairs to get you to the base of the top, about 225’. And it’s not as easy a climb as you would expect. The towers, having been finished in 1348, lack modern conveniences like AC. And today, Paris, is 95 degrees. So all in our group were breathing hard and red in the face by the time we got out of the tower into the sunshine. Remarkable lack of wind at that height. But I was glad to be outside. And breathing fresh air. It took us 10 – 15 minutes to get there. We were allowed to walk down the edge of the building between the towers. Right at the edge. Scary but not. One hell of a great view. And here we got to see the gargoyles. Not one alike another. They were all over the place. Many statues of apostles, 12 I think, as well. Imagine the thought, in 1148, let’s decorate the top that no one will ever see. Makes sense. To someone who lives in the dark ages.

We spent 20 minutes on the roof looking around. The view was above the plaza. I can only imagine what this was like 600 years ago for those lucky enough to see it

We climbed another few hundred steps and got to the highest rooftop. Different view with even smaller things below. The view of Paris is amazing, though what you see best is rooftops and tall buildings

Next climb took us to the bell tower. I had the opportunity to personally meet Quasimodo. Seems decent enough. The two bells are massive, about 12’ get across bell opening and 15’ tall. How the hell did they get them up here? No Sikorsky sky crane in 1348. Maybe divine intervention. The bells are still rung occasionally. Two days ago they were rung. But not for me. Woulda been cool.

So, we still gotta go all the way down. That was crazy. Straight down the other tower, no stops. Only 5 1/2 mins. And a lot of pain. My legs are jelly now. But the experience is a must-do. Only in Paris.

After all that work we needed sustenance. We went to a local cafe for cocktails and wine. Hey, all risk needs a reward. There are bar/cafes on every corner. We found one and soaked our wounds in alcohol. We had a second round. We worked hard.

We had planned a dinner at Louis Vins. A nice place personally reconmend ba a friend of Carly’s. As usual it took us forever wandering up and down streets to find the place. No prob, we had a reservation.

The restaurant reminded me a lot of American restaurants in style and presentation. Food exceeded all expectations. Nice. So did price. Not nice. We enjoyed a nice evening of food and wine. What you expect from Paris. Really have not had a bad meal yet in Paris.

After dinner we went back to the hotel. After our workout we needed rest. Actually the kids went out to drink. Emily did laundry and I tried to get some work done. Fun. Hard to find time for the stuff that isn’t any fun.

Laundry was a pain. The dryer took overnight to dry our clothes. Not so fine. But we did sleep well. Yay.